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Phinda Wildlife Research Project: 28 November - 12 December 2023*
Spending the night with an elephant...
Seeing wildlife up close is something almost everyone headed for Africa is hoping to experience. But how close is close enough, when you are dealing with a fully grown bull elephant? A good sighting from 20 metres away, perfect for a nice picture? A bit closer yet, so you can make out the detail on the tough but beautiful skin? What about sitting up in bed and seeing the giant silhouette of an elephant through the flimsy wall of your hut – too close?
Volunteer Charlie Wheeler thinks that is just about perfect
My recent trip to Tuli, Botswana was for six weeks, from January to March 2012 and it really was a trip of a lifetime for myself and my girlfriend, which we will truly never forget.
It took a long time coming but after a year of saving half of our wages each week and doing lots and lots of fundraising including sponsored walks, a bingo night, quizzes, drive sales, car boots and having a stall in the town our trip to Africa was upon us.
The trip to Africa was a 12 hour flight from London to Johannesburg where we met Martin, who is extremely helpful and puts your mind at ease as soon as you say hello. Once we had met our driver it was a further 8 hour car drive to the Botswana border.
The first person we met in Botswana was Stuart, the project leader and expert tracker. He is the most inspirational person you will meet and has the best personality – we felt at home almost straight away, which was very important and helpful for us.
Having travelled there in the winter time it was Africa’s wet/raining season, so our drive from the border to the camp was a bit hair-raising, sliding all over the place on the wet muddy roads.
The camp where we stayed in Tuli Wilderness really was in the African bush. It had three huts for sleeping and a large Lapa, which accommodated a kitchen, gas powered fridge and freezer and table and chairs for research and eating. Our guides and helpers stay just on the perimeters of the camp.
The camp was amazing! Having no fences around made it much more exciting, as you could expect the occasional visit from elephants, lions and even leopards whilst lying in your bed. On one particular night we were all in our huts and we heard some very loud rustling coming from outside. It was a bull elephant about 20 feet from our hut. The light from the moon meant that you could see his silhouette through the hut wall; you could hear his footsteps and hear him breathing and eating. Whilst stunned to silence and trying to take in what was happening, everything suddenly fell silent. Then the snoring started, along with other sounds that it produced – the big bull elephant had fallen asleep right next to us! It was fantastic to know that we were going to be spending the night with an elephant. In the morning, we went outside and you could see the exact spot where he had spent the night.
Another huge highlight for us whilst at Tuli was the lions. Duma and Mutla were two brothers. We were always on the lookout for them but didn’t manage to see them until about a week into our trip. But this wait made it even more amazing when we first saw them. Having no fences in Tuli, it was never certain when or how often you would see the lions, elephants or any other individuals as natural migration and movement would occur. This highlight though was about the female lions. One of them was believed to have recently had cubs, but no one had ever seen them. After a couple of weeks we one day saw some lion tracks, which were accompanied by three sets of very small cub sized tracks. We knew they were in the area. The next day we went for a drive and found a zebra carcass and in the bushes a few feet behind was Sebatana, the mother, another female and three very inquisitive cubs. We were the first people ever to see these cubs so it was pretty special and truly memorable.
There are so many highlights from our trip that we will remember forever and it is very hard to talk about just a couple. Learning how to track, to ID animals and birds, to spot and ID tracks, faeces and plants and trees was thrilling and all extremely rewarding.
Being passionate about birds and photography, one last highlight for me was once when I was on the tracker seat at the front of the land rover, with my camera poised. We were driving quite slowly and spotted a Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill perching on a tree with something in its bill. As we slowed down I picked up my camera and snapped away whilst this hornbill threw up and tucked in to a huge locust. Not very impressive to everyone else in the truck but I loved it! A few more bird highlights was seeing three Martial eagles, a nesting pair of Verreux’s eagles, the Secretary bird and flocks of the humble Barn swallow, which had flown all the way from my doorstep back home.
I would recommend Tuli to absolutely anyone who loves nature, being outdoors, wants to help in conservation and quite simply wants to de-stress from your everyday lives and go to a place that is like no other in the world.